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PENNSYLVANIA
PENNSYLVANIA, which, but for a small stretch
on Lake Erie is the only landlocked state in the
northeast, was explored by the Dutch in the early
1600s, settled by the Swedes forty years later,
and claimed by the British in 1664. Charles II
of England, who owed a debt to the Penn family,
rid himself of the potentially troublesome young
William Penn, an enthusiastic advocate of religious
freedom, by granting him land in the colony in
1682. Penn Jr. immediately established a "holy
experiment" of "brotherly" love and tolerance,
naming the state for his father and setting a
good example by signing a peaceful cohabitation
treaty with the Native Americans. Most of the
early agricultural settlers were religious refugees:
Quakers like Penn himself, Mennonites from Germany
and Switzerland, to be joined later by Irish Catholics
during the potato famines of the nineteenth century.
"The keystone state" was crucial in the development
of the US. Politicians and thinkers like Benjamin
Franklin congregated in Philadelphia – home of
both the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution
– and were prominent in articulating the ideas
behind the Revolution. Later, the battle in Gettysburg,
south Pennsylvania – best remembered for Abraham
Lincoln's immortal Gettysburg Address – marked
a turning point in the Civil War. Pennsylvania
was also vital industrially: Pittsburgh, in the
west, was the world's leading steel producer in
the nineteenth century, and nearly all the nation's
anthracite coal is still mined here. The two great
urban centers of Philadelphia and Pittsburgh,
both lively and vibrant tourist destinations,
are at opposite ends of the state. The three hundred
miles between them, though predominantly agricultural,
are topographically diverse. There are over one
hundred state parks, with green rolling countryside
in the east, brooding forests in the west, and
in the northeast, the rivers, lakes and valleys
of the Poconos. Lancaster County, home to traditional
Amish farmers, and the Gettysburg battlefield
both heave with busloads of day-trippers, while
the Hershey chocolate factory, minutes away from
Harrisburg, the capital, draws thousands of cocoa-loving
visitors each year.
Central Pennsylvania
Central Pennsylvania, cut north to south by the
broad Susquehanna River, has no major cities,
though the state capital, Harrisburg, is an excellent
base from which to explore sights that include
the Hershey chocolate empire and the rolling Amish
farmlands of Lancaster County to the east, and
the Civil War site of Gettysburg on the state's
southern border. To the north, the mighty forests
of the "Grand Canyon of Pennsylvania," around
Williamsport, reveal the legacy of its great nineteenth-century
lumber wealth in mansion-lined streets. Cities
like Johnstown, beyond the dramatic Allegheny
Mountains in the west, and Scranton are industrial
towns with little of interest for the casual visitor.
Lancaster County – Pennsylvania Dutch Country
Lancaster County, fifty miles west of Philadelphia,
stretches for about 45 miles from Churchtown in
the east to the Susquehanna River in the west.
Although Lancaster City, ten miles east of the
river, was US capital for a day in September 1777,
the region is famed more for its preponderance
of agricultural religious communities, known collectively
as the Pennsylvania Dutch (a mistaken derivation
of Deutsch, or German). An extremely touristy
place, even before it was brought to international
fame by the movie Witness, Lancaster County has
maintained its natural beauty in the face of encroaching
commercialization. It is a region of gentle countryside
and fertile farmlands, mule-drawn ploughs, tiny
roadside bakeries crammed with jams and pies,
Amish children wending on old-fashioned scooters
to and from their one-room schoolhouses, and flower-filled,
immaculate farmhouses. However, attempting to
live a simple life away from the pressures of
the outside world has proved too much for many
Pennsylvania Dutch. A few (mainly Mennonites)
have succumbed to commercial need by offering
rides in their buggies and meals in their homes.
Members of the stricter orders in particular have
moved away from the ceaseless intrusions of privacy
– as well as soaring land prices – to less touristed
Ohio and Iowa. Remember, too, that as Sunday is
a day of rest for the Amish, many attractions,
restaurants and other amenities will be closed.
Northwest Pennsylvania
The overwhelmingly rural northwestern corner of
Pennsylvania offers nature lovers a treat in the
shape of Allegheny National Forest, which spreads
out between I-80 and the far western reaches of
New York State. The only major conurbation is
Erie, further northwest on the eponymous Great
Lake.
Western Pennsylvania
Western Pennsylvania, a key point for frontier
trade and an important thoroughfare to the West,
was the focus of the fighting between the English
and the French in the seven-year French and Indian
War for colonial and maritime power (1756–63).
It grew to industrial prominence in the nineteenth
century, with the exploitation of its coal resources
gathering pace after the Civil War, and the opening
of the world's first oil well at Titusville (now
Drake Well Memorial Park) in northwestern Pennsylvania
in 1859. Today, tourism in western Pennsylvania,
like the now-quiet coal and steel industries,
is concentrated around the surprisingly appealing
city of Pittsburgh. To the south of the city,
the Laurel Highlands features Frank Lloyd Wright's
not-to-be-missed architectural masterpiece, Fallingwater,
as well as nearby Ohiopyle State Park and the
Youghiogheny River, which offer plenty of outdoor
activities. Another great wilderness area to explore
is the lush Allegheny National Forest in the north,
which begins twenty miles from I-80. Erie's Presque
Isle State Park, in the very northwest corner
of the state, is also worth a visit for its sandy
beaches and wooded hiking trails.
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