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MISSOURI
Since 1998, the decommissioned battleship
USS Missouri, also known as the "Mighty Mo", has
been permanently moored close to the USS Arizona
Memorial. The last battleship to be constructed
by the United States, she was christened in January
1944. After service in the Pacific and Korean
wars, she was decommissioned in 1955 and remained
mothballed until being refitted in 1986. Operation
Desert Storm saw the Missouri firing Tomahawk
missiles against Iraq, but she was finally retired
once more in 1992, as the last operational battleship
in the world.
Should the need arise, she's still capable of
being recommissioned in 45–90 days. Several different
US locations competed for the honor of providing
a final berth for the Missouri. Pearl Harbor won,
on the basis that the place where World War II
began for the United States should also hold the
spot where it ended; the Japanese surrender of
September 2, 1945, was signed on the deck of the
Missouri, then moored in Tokyo Bay. In addition
to being a monument in her own right, part of
the battleship's new role is as a recruiting tool
for the US Navy; it's even possible to arrange
kids' sleepover parties on board.
Since the battleship is located alongside Ford
Island, which is officially part of the naval
base, visitors can only reach it by shuttle bus.
These depart from the USS Bowfin visitor center,
which is also where you purchase tickets (daily
9am–5pm; adults $14, ages 4–12 $7; guided tours
$6 extra per person; tel 973-2494, www.ussmissouri.com).
Having crossed the harbor via one of only six
retracting bridges in the world, you're deposited
at the entrance gate. Depending on whether you've
paid extra to join one of the regular hour-long
guided tours – which you might as well, given
that you're interested enough to have made it
this far – you're then shepherded either towards
your personal guide or simply left to climb up
to the deck.
The overwhelming first impression for all visitors
is the Missouri's sheer size; at 887 feet long,
she's the length of three football fields. Next
you're likely to focus on her colossal twin gun
turrets, each of which is equipped with three
guns. By contrast, once you go below decks, the
crew's quarters are cramped in the extreme, bringing
home the full claustrophobic reality of her long
and dangerous missions. The principal highlights
are the dimly lit Combat Engagement Center, set
up as it was during the Gulf War but now looking
very antiquated; the surrender site, on the deck
nearby; and the spot where a kamikaze fighter
careered into the side of the ship, as captured
in a dramatic photo. Thus far, however, the Missouri's
four engine rooms are not open to the public.
Missouri Headwaters State Park
Officially, the Missouri River begins its circuitous
journey to the Mississippi, and eventually the
Gulf of Mexico, at the confluence of the Jefferson,
Madison and Gallatin rivers. Three miles north
of I-90, halfway between Bozeman and Butte, and
maintained as the Missouri Headwaters State Park
($3 per vehicle; camping $5), these marshy grasslands
beneath a shallow bluff were identified by Lewis
and Clark in July 1805. Three years later, John
Colter, a veteran of that expedition who was the
first to describe Yellowstone, was captured here
by a party of Blackfoot, who, after killing his
companion, stripped him and made him run for his
life. Colter killed the one pursuer who kept up
with him, hid under a snag on the river, and reached
safety on the Bighorn River eleven days later.
Fur trappers who followed in the wake of Lewis
and Clark included Kit Carson; traces remain of
the nineteenth-century town they created.
The state of MISSOURI
Where the forest meets the prairie and the Mississippi
River meets the Missouri River, has just two significant
cities. Dominant St Louis sits midway down its
eastern fringe; Kansas City is almost directly
across on the western border. The pair are linked
by I-70, but there's not much in between to warrant
stopping off. In contrast, the south features
the beautiful hillsides, streams and ragged lakes
of the Ozark Mountains, as well as the booming
country-and-western town of Branson; while in
the east, small river towns such as Hannibal and
serene Ste Genevieve brighten the course of the
Mississippi. The northwest, home of the Pony Express
and outlaw Jesse James, still strikes up images
of frontier times. Although the first French colonists
honored the claims of local Native Americans,
such as the original Missouri, when the area was
sold to the US in 1803 as part of the Louisiana
Purchase, the Indians were driven west by a great
rush of settlers. In the 1840s and 1850s immigrants
from Germany and Ireland flooded into eastern
Missouri. Outnumbering their pro-slavery predecessors,
they swung the balance in favor of staying in
the Union during the Civil War. However, Confederate
guerrilla forces attracted considerable support
among slave-owners in the west of the state. Meanwhile
Missouri, and St Louis in particular, was establishing
itself as an important gateway to the West. Today,
the "Show Me State" (so called because of the
supposed skepticism of the typical Missourian)
retains a conservative air, particularly in the
rural areas.
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