CHILE

Seen in the pages of an atlas, Chile's outline seems aberrant, even fantastical: almost 4000km in length and with an average width of just 180km, the very idea of it seems absurd. Once on Chilean soil, however, you'll be impressed by the country as a physical geographic entity.

While the formidable barrier of rock and ice formed by the Andes cuts the country off from Argentina and Bolivia, the Atacama Desert, a thousand-kilometre stretch of parched wasteland, separates it from Peru to the north. And to the west, only a few islands dotted in the Pacific Ocean break the waves that roll onto Chile's coast from Australasia.

All this has created a country distinct from much of the rest of South America. It is Westernized, relatively affluent, and – with the exception of the infamous military Pinochet regime of the 1970s and 1980s – boasts a long tradition of political stability and orderly government. Above all, though, it is its remote and dizzyingly beautiful landscapes that lure visitors to Chile. Much of the country is covered by vast tracts of barely touched wilderness – places where you can be days from the nearest tarred road, and where you can have steaming hot springs, gleaming white salt flats or emerald lakes all to yourself.

Few countries can match the astounding contrasts of scenery, ranging from the driest desert in the world to immense ice fields and glaciers. In between these extremes is a kaleidoscope of panoramas: sun-baked scrubland, lush vineyards and orchards, virgin temperate rainforest, dramatic fjords and bleak Patagonian steppes. Towering over it all is the long spine of the Andes, punctuated by colossal peaks and smouldering volcanoes. You can experience this wilderness in whichever style you choose – Chile is not a poor country, and you don't have to slum it while you're here.

Whatever your budget, you'll probably want to take advantage of the numerous possibilities for outdoor activities, all offered by an increasing number of local outfitters. If you have less active plans in mind, you can sit back and take in Chile's scenery from various ferry rides in the south, reliable flights, or on organized bus tours from most of the main cities.

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